the Irving Penn platinum print a farseeing collector might have picked up at auction 10 years ago for under $8,000 would now command $350,000,
glorifying “heroin chic” in the mid-90s resulted in self-chastening throughout the industry.
With the notable exception of Steven Meisel, whose work mines an obsession with fashion’s back pages, most fashion photographers of recent years have made it clear that their concerns lie mainly in “material that has nothing to do with the history of fashion,” as Mr. Aletti said.
he is helping propel fashion photographs in the direction of art and in the process creating an alluring hybrid, one that sometimes supports an aesthetics of glamour and just as often parodies it. “Fashion photography now is not about fashion alone,” Ms. de Beaupre said. “The material is of interest now because there is this strong creative and personal language
(fees of $100,000 a day are not rare for top fashion photographers) toiling in advertising’s lucrative fields.